James Joyce is the Greatest Writer in the World--Days 3 & 4

 Even though I do remember being exhausted the last time we did this, I think our brains file this information away so that our bodies are still willing to go along with the ridiculous pace of a study abroad adventure. Not only are we adjusting to a new time zone, getting lost, fighting with Irish appliances, and helping 13 students to acclimate to living in Ireland, it's also the first week of classes, which is a heavy lift even at home! Next week, I'd like to do a little Mrs. Dalloway and document the day--I've been in such a rush to get to work and completely immersed in teaching that I haven't taken a single photo of the university or our classroom! 

Part of our class schedule includes a variety of required excursions (like the 1916 tour). After Wednesday's class, we had a scheduled trip to learn about Gaelic sports. I'll admit that we were skeptical about the Gaelic Sports Experience. Tim and I both fully expected this to be the part of the trip that was like the compulsory Irish dance class we took during our last study abroad trip (hot, sweaty, cruel). But it was actually delightful. Peyton took on the task of navigating us from NCI to Glasnevin (a bit of a haul)--the students immediately took to him and his intense focus on moving 16 bodies on and off this multi-leg adventure. After roughly reaching our destination, Tim took over navigation. We walked toward the only real building we could see--passing fields of children playing hurling and Gaelic football. Eventually, Tim found a person who confirmed that we were (rather miraculously) in the right spot. Later, I found this one sign further down the road that might have confirmed that we were in the right spot, but nothing anywhere ever said "Gaelic Sports Experience." 

Second entrance to the Gaelic Sports Experience.

Once we were inside and settled, we had a great lecture on the history and politics of Irish sports. I had never really considered how Irish sports were also sources of resistance and cultural identity. I mean, Americans love baseball, but it's not something we've ever had to protect as a part of some quintessential American identity. In any case, it wasn't long before our students were suited up in helmets with masks and armed with hurleys and sent to the field. The three of us opted out of participating in the sport and instead cheered from the sidelines. These students were so committed to whupping each others' asses that one even got sick on the field! 

On O'Connell St. on our way to Gaelic Games Experience.

In the Gaelic Games Experience classroom (the benches are shaped like hurleys!).

Students ready for their hurling lessons!

After the hurling lesson, students still had two more lessons in Gaelic football and handball, but the three of us figured our time might be better spent having a pint at the John Kavanagh pub (The Gravediggers). The pub is about a 15 minute walk away on the back side of Glasnevin Cemetery.

On our walk to The Gravediggers.

Hustling for that pint!

I couldn't resist this sign about picking up after your dog in Irish.

We promised the students pints if they could make their way to the pub--and they did! Because there's limited seating inside, we just stood around outside with our pints and chatted with the locals. It was a lovely end to a long day.

Sign with some rules for hanging out at The Gravediggers.

Enjoying our first pint of the day.

On Thursday, we met our students at the Kilmainhaim Gaol and headed off for a bit of afternoon adventure before our traditional music pub tour. We stopped at a local gin distillery (Stillgarden) for a drink and moseyed over to Smithfield for dinner (at Nutbutter) before meeting our tour group. 

On our walk to Stillgarden.

Drinks at Stillgarden Distillery.

Meanwhile, our students were set free after their tour of Kilmainhaim Gaol to begin their three day weekend. We've got folks heading out to Spain, Scotland, and County Cork. More importantly, they've figured out how to use the bus and the Luas. Our students are amazing--I've been utterly impressed with their good cheer (despite their own exhaustion), their willingness to engage in ridiculous activities, and their sense of adventure. 

The traditional pub tour didn't exactly live up to our expectations, but we did get to see three lovely pubs and listen to a little trad music. 

At The Cobblestone waiting for our first pints and the music to start.

On our way to Piper's Corner with a view of the Spire.

A picture of the front of The Cobblestone after being told to move aside for a wheelchair. We never really managed to get back inside--and there was no wheelchair! 

I didn't get a photo of our last stop, McNeill's--it was well after 10:00 and we were all exhausted. Tomorrow we're doing a NINE HOUR rural pub tour. There's sure to be more pints and adventure on the way, so we better rest up. 

An aside: On our walk to our second pub we passed the statue of James Joyce just off O'Connell Street. I thought our tour guide said that Joyce was the best Irish writer and later in the pub I gently challenged this assertion. He looked me dead serious in the eyes and said, "I didn't say he was the best Irish writer. I said he was the best writer in the world." What can you say in response to that? I wanted to challenge him to list off five Irish women writers, but I've been there before!